474 THE STORY OF MY LIFE [1858
coronilla and myrtle, anemones and violets. ... It is a comfort here to be free from the begging atmosphere of Naples, for in Sorrento people do not beg ; they only propose ' mangiare maccaroni alia sna salute.' "
4. — We have had a charming cruise in the ' Centaur ' — the sea like glass, the view clear. Captain Clifford sent his boat to fetch us, and we sat on deck in arm-chairs, as if on land. In tiny fishing boats, lying flat on pur backs, we entered the Grotta Azurra (of Capri), like a magical cavern peopled with phantoms, each face
CAPRI.1
looking livid as the boats floated over the deep blue water. Then we scrambled up to the fortress-palace of Tiberius, our ascent being enlivened by a tremendous battle between the midshipmen and the donkey-women, who finally drew their stilettos !
" Amalfi is most romantic and lovely. We were there ten days, and spent the mornings in drawing amongst the 1 From " Southern Italy."s the subserviency of the police to the King of the Thieves was characteristic of public justice under Ferdinand II.